Frequently Asked Questions

The state standard for single-family homes is the energy chapter of the 2015 International Residential Code, effective September 1, 2016. In climate zone 3, which covers Tarrant County, that means R-38 in ceilings and R-20 (or R-13 plus R-5 continuous) in wood-frame walls. Some cities enforce newer editions, so check with your building office.

At HomeGuide's R-5 to R-7 per inch, two inches of closed-cell foam lands around R-10 to R-14. HomeGuide lists closed-cell at $3.00 to $5.00 per square foot installed and open-cell at $1.50 to $3.50, with thickness a big driver. We measure the area and price the thickness the space needs in writing.

Most complaints trace back to installation: wrong mix, wrong thickness, foam over leaks or wet framing, or a sealed attic left without a plan for humidity. Some buyers and inspectors also find it harder to see the roof deck under foam. Careful prep, the right foam for each surface and a written record of what was installed answer most of those concerns.

Spraying the underside of the roof deck brings the attic, and any ducts in it, inside the insulated shell. Insulating the floor keeps the attic hot and vented but costs less. If your ducts and air handler are in the attic, deck foam often makes more sense; if not, a sealed and well-insulated floor may be enough.

Blown-in is usually cheaper per square foot. HomeGuide lists blown-in at $1.00 to $2.80 per square foot against $1.50 to $5.00 for spray foam. Foam seals air in the same step, which is why many homes get both: foam to seal, loose fill for depth.

HomeGuide advises allowing at least 24 hours before re-entering. We give you the time for the product used and ventilate the space before you return.

It pays best where air leaks are the main problem: sealed attics with ducts, bonus rooms, and walls open during a remodel. On an open attic floor, sealing plus blown-in often gives similar comfort for less.

It depends on the R-value target and the rafters. Open-cell runs about R-3.5 to R-3.7 per inch, so the quote states the thickness and resulting R-value for your roof.

It can make them harder to see, which is why we check the deck for stains or soft spots before spraying and point out anything that needs a roofer first.

Standard spray foam needs open cavities. For closed walls, dense-pack blown-in through small holes is the usual approach.

Insulation alone usually does not, but HVAC, electrical and re-roofing work do under the City of Arlington's permit list. If your project changes ducts or the roof, those parts follow the permit process.

A sealed attic is designed without roof vents, but it still needs a plan for humidity, usually some conditioned air or a dehumidification approach. We explain the details for your house.

Yes, but most attics benefit from both. Sealing stops airflow, and insulation slows the heat that still conducts through the ceiling.

Many single-family attics take a day. Larger homes, removal or roof deck foam can add time.

For R-38 to R-49 it usually means somewhere around 10 to 16 inches or more, depending on the material. The quote states the depth and R-value.

Usually, if it is dry and clean. Wet, moldy or rodent-soiled insulation should come out first.

Often yes for an open attic floor, as long as the leaks are sealed first.

Hoses run from the truck to the attic and the work area is covered. Dust stays mostly in the attic.

Closed-cell foam on the panels keeps warm, humid air off the cold steel, which is what causes the drip.

Sometimes, if it is dry and well attached. Wet or torn blanket should come out first.

Large items can stay if they are covered and moved away from the walls. We go over it before the job.

Yes. The roof takes most of the sun, so roof-only is a common first step.

HomeAdvisor says 20 to 50 years when applied correctly and recoated on schedule, with a new topcoat every 10 to 15 years.

Often, if the existing roof is dry and well attached. Wet areas must come out first.

The foam can be built up to improve slope toward drains, which reduces ponding.

Yes for normal maintenance. Areas with regular foot traffic get extra coating or walk pads.

Not if it is dry and clean. Wet, moldy or animal-soiled insulation should come out.

Leave it alone and have it tested. If it contains asbestos, an abatement contractor removes it before other work.

Many attics are cleared in a day, with reinsulation the same day or the next.

Yes. It is cut or scraped by hand, which is why foam removal costs more per square foot.